Solo Exploring Old Riga

We slept late this morning recovering from jet lag. We decided months ago to arrive two days early for the Epic Adventure so that we had plenty of time to rest and acclimate to the time change.  Good decision.  Each day our body clocks have become more attuned to the local time, but there's still time to take a nap before the adventure begins :)

There's a nice park just across the street from the hotel. The golden domes of the Orthodox Cathedral of the Birth of Christ are visible over the park trees.

It was built in 1876 and is one of the most important orthodox churches in the Baltic.

and then around the corner to a nearby coffee shop for a late breakfast and latte.

The afternoon was spent exploring Old Riga.

Liberty Monument

The Latvians have their own Statue of Liberty, symbolizing liberation from foreign power. It was dedicated in 1935 and stands 42 meters high, the lady herself is 9 meters.  The 3 stars symbolize the the unity of the 3 regions of Latvia.  When Latvia was occupied by the Soviet Union, the monument was a problem for them.  At one point, Moscow ordered the demolition of the statue, but a famous Russian sculptor, Vera Muhina, was instrumental in preventing the the ordered destruction.

 There's a beautiful park that runs along the whole western side of the old city.

Original Chapel founding St. John's in 1234

St. John's Church began as a small chapel dedicated to St John the Baptist in 1234.

It's gorgeous gothic rib vaults have a colorful history.

In the 14th century, the roof was removed and catapults installed when Riga was at war with the Livonia Society.  After the war the church roof was rebuilt with the gothic ribs.

In the 15th century, two monks wanted to become saints, so they enclosed themselves into the wall of the church with only a small grated window to the outside by which passers-by could give them food and water.  They both soon died, but the Pope refused to canonize them because they were only motivated by ambition.  As if that wasn't bad enough, the opening was closed up and the monks forgotten about until 1848 when the spire was damaged.  Workmen found the monks.  A decision was made to reseal the niche, leaving the monks undisturbed.  A small opening in the shape of the cross now commemorates the spot. So I guess the monks get some kind of recognition.

In 1523, when the monks left the church to lead a procession through town, the Lutherans locked the gates behind them and refused to let them back in.  The town council shut down all the convent churches.  They took the books left behind by the monks and established the city library.  The empty building were used for secular purposes until the Catholics later returned.

In the late 1600's a penitentiary was built next to the church. A door connecting the two buildings allowed the prisoners to be brought into the choir loft to participate in the service.

Next to St John's Church is an alley that leads through the old Convent Gate into

the inner courtyard of the first convent founded by Bishop Albert.  Part of the courtyard was formed by the oldest defensive walls in Riga.

Town Hall

Town Hall Square is home to several interesting buildings. The Museum of Latvian Occupation, House of Blackheads, Town Hall, and  St. Peter's Church can also be seen from the square.

In medieval times, peasants and cart drivers lined up in the square to have their loads weighed.  After registering the goods, monies were collected and inventory was stored in the upper floors of the House of Blackheads, and the square was covered in horse manure.  So at dawn, the police brought out the prostitutes arrested the night before, with brooms and pails to clean up the mess.  Some were dressed in rags, but others in silk gowns and fancy plumed hats.

Museum of Latvian Occupation

The Museum of Latvian Occupation houses memorabilia and papers documenting the violence carried out between 1941-1991 by the Germans and Soviets.

The House of Blackheads is one of Riga's main buildings.  In the middle ages the patron of infantry was a Moor named Maurice.  His curly head was added to their coat of arms and the fraternity became known as the Riga Blackheads.  I know, not very politically correct.  Anyway, the fraternity served the spiritual and social needs of the 13th century wealthy single (unmarried) merchants class.  They also provided the first line of defense for the city during times of war.  During more peaceful times they organized Shrovetide carnivals for the two weeks prior to Lent.

The steeple of St Peter's Church can be seen just beyond the corner of the square.

Having said all that, and shown you the pictures, I regret to inform our dear readers that it is all fake!

On June 28, 1941 Red Army was retreating from the town square.  However, a Russian artillery unit across the Daugava River mistook the retreating army for the enemy.  The resulting fierce firefight completely destroyed all the buildings around the square.  All of them are precise copies of the original - right down to the statue of Roland in the middle of the square.

We left the Town Square and headed toward the river and another "fake" monument.

Well, at least we know the original still exists.  Turns out they decided to put the original in the museum when some drunk university students took it for a joy ride around the city.

In the early 1300s the Castle of Riga was built.  It is now used as a government building, but is undergoing renovations.  Being an oblivious tourist, I thought there might be an exhibit inside and tried to enter a courtyard.  I was immediately and brusquely confronted by an armed military guard. Oops.  So sorry - don't shoot - I'm leaving.

On our way back to the hotel, we stopped to check out some local art made from stone and metal.

 

Dave commented that he thought this could sell for twice as much in the US.

The man next to us said, "No way".  Of course this led to the obligatory "American? Where are you from?"

Imagine our surprise when we found out the Jeff Foltskog (cousin to ABBA lead singer Agnetha Foltskog) graduated form our alma mater, Towson University.  Wow.  Travel halfway around the world and the first person we bump into is also from little ole Towson, MD!

On return to the hotel we found fellow riders arriving - Steve and Mary Jane Sheldon. The group is starting to gather.

Tomorrow, Janis has arranged for a group walking tour.  Stay tuned for more photos and information about Riga.